The term Rancio emerged the other day, and I wanted to address the question as it is a bit ambiguous and used for a variety of wines and beverages. We came across this term as an ingredient in a cocktail, and it was simply printed on the menu as "Rancio". I have never really seen it referred to this way, more often I am used to seeing it as a descriptive reference for flavors and aromatics in certain wines - especially those that have been aged in warm and oxidative conditions for a long period of time.

I knew what the ingredient notation was referencing - most likely a wine from southern France that comes from or around the Banyuls region, but it was not clearly defined on the menu as there was no brand associated with the listing. The impact on the drink was relatively mild, but certainly there were some nutty flavors and aromatics there that the creator of the drink was looking for, and also mouthfeel, which is perhaps the most important characteristic of the Rancio Wine used. Keep in mind, this was very nearly the same aromatics that some sherry or even port wine could also produce in the cocktails, but the texture was not necessarily something these other wines could bring to the equation. Cudos for going the extra step toward unique.

Here is the Oxford definition of Rancio. You can see that there are multiple wine categories that make use of the term and that it is used to cover a wide range of stylistic imprints - all though having to do with some form of severely aged process - but always under controlled conditions. The effect can be tremendous and produce unique wines with long lives to be enjoyed - either in a drink or simply on their own.

From The Oxford Companion to Wine (online edition)
Rancio, imprecise tasting term used in many languages for a distinctive style of wine, often fortified wine or vin doux naturel, achieved by deliberately maderizing the wine by exposing it to oxygen and/or heat. The wine may be stored in barrels in hot storehouses (as for some of Australia's topaque and muscat), or immediately under the rafters in a hot climate (as for some of roussillon's vins doux naturels), or in glass bonbonnes left out of doors and subjected to the changing temperatures of night and day (as in parts of Spain). The word rancio has the same root as ‘rancid’ and the wines which result have an additional and powerful smell reminiscent of overripe fruit, nuts, and melted, or even rancid, butter.


Key flavour compounds identified in aged vin doux naturel wines arise by maillard reaction of sugars with amino acids and by oxidation. These compounds are known to be present in, and responsible for, the characteristic flavour of other sweet food products. Thus, for example, furaneol, cyclotene, maltol, sotolon, which are known contributors to the flavour of honey and caramelized sugar products, have been found in these wines along with several lactones that are important to the flavour of dried fruits.


This richness emerges in a complex series of sensations on the nose and palate. ‘Rankness, a special character of fullness and richness’, was the unflattering description given by Charles Walter Berry, the wine merchant who was Britain's leading cognac connoisseur between the World Wars (rancio can often be found in oak-aged brandies). This richness, allied to a certain mild cheesiness in the nose, reminds some tasters of Roquefort cheese. But the richness, depth, and diversity of rancio can remind others of rich fruit cakes with their flavours of candied fruits, apricots, sultanas, almonds, and walnuts.

Holy Shit!
What a week.
The MW Residence Seminar is the most intensive week of wine study that I can think of, and if there is something out there that has got more going on with as much high-level studying situations and tastings – let me know. (Although, I seriously doubt there is anything out there quite like this.)
This week was five straight days of study. Each day started early in the morning (7:45am) getting set for your morning tasting grid which involved 12 x blind practical. Then doing the blind grid for 2.5 hours, followed by an hour and a half review of that grid with multiple MWs.
The afternoons were then filled with seminars on various topics of how to approach and write the essays for the various parts of the MW exams. There were also topical seminars on specific wine regions and or grape varieties, viticulture and vinification, etc. And each evening had some event or tasting, often concluding around 8pm or later.
There is a need for stamina in all of this as well as an ability to collect, absorb and download (although this will mostly be done later) the vast amount of information and data presented. There were motivational speeches, relaxing techniques offered, detailed discussions on essay structure, one on ones with MWs and feedback sessions, mock exams, as well as a tremendous amount of opportunity to interact with top-level industry persons and networking.
My week also involved a 45-minute walk to and from the venue each day. This gave me the opportunity to get some exercise before and to decompress after each day’s sessions. 
I began the week by attending a tasting the day before the event. This was the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting, which was focused on the 2015 Vintage across Bordeaux. I concluded the week by attending the MW Annual Bordeaux Tasting focused on the 2013 vintage. In between were a ton of other tastings. Here is a simple run down of all the wines I had the opportunity to review and taste through the course of the six days. I did actually taste each of these wines, and in some cases as noted it was in blind situation.

Continuing on with the exceptionally high volume of reading and study for my program, this week is looking to be another solid series of tastings and more MW test question research. All getting ready for MW residency in a few weeks as well as the over-all goal of the S1 Assessment in June. I am fortunate to have a variety of resources, generous tasting partners, and co-MW students in various groups to assist and balance the study and discussions.

For the Monday Tasting Group, this week, we have selected to focus on Riesling - any regional style. In preparation for this I have added my notes on Riesling to the Cultivar page under Study Resources. I will be adding to this later in the week with specific tasting notes from Germany (trocken wines from Mosel, Pfalz and Rheingau), as well as Austria and Alsace. We are generally focusing on these wines in my Thursday Skype group, in which we detail and then compare dry tasting notes following the MW style in which there is a reliance on identifying all of the characteristics of the wine from the glass and why it is there.

For Tuesday, in which I am associated with a MW tasting group out of NYC, the focus will be on Merlot, generally speaking on the lower end of the price scale. To this effort I have rewritten and added to my notes on Merlot in the Cultivar section of Study Resources.

This group also focuses on past MW exam questions as they may appear on future exams, and to give a sense of what is involved with this, here are our specific topics this week and on these two questions:

• 2015/P1, Q5 - Why does density of vine plantation vary from vineyard to vineyard? Asses the advantages of low and high density plantings.
• 2015/P3, Q2 - In the world of highly automated and computer controlled bottling lines, to what extent are quality control checks becoming obsolete?

Just some light reading on vine density and computer controlled bottling lines to enliven my weekend...

For Wednesday, though, I think we have an exciting and hopefully educational tasting session planned. Topic is:
What kind of wine is Appassimento?
Designed to explore the various wines made in the appassimento method.
Think and explore. Does not have to be a tasting of only Amarone.
Various wines are produced with this method, reds and whites, dry and sweet wines. Anything non-Italian?

Once I have confirmations of attendance (by Monday please!) I will make assignments. In general we agreed to not taste all of the wines blind. I will be adding a page to this site later today with some basic information and notes on the Appassimento method and related wines. 

Other resources:

• Blind tasting sheet download
• Released yesterday on Levi Dalton's podcast I'll Drink to That, an exceptional interview with Chisa Bize, who runs Domaine Simon Bize et Fils in Burgundy’s Savigny-les-Beaune with the help of her sister-in-law, Marielle Grivot. Episode 441: Friday, January 12, 2018
• Updated notes on Pinot Gris with ever expanding regional tasting notes. In addition to the assigned group of Alsace and Collio/Alto-Adige, I also had the opportunity to taste PG from Willamette Valley, Grave in Friuli and Mendoza, last week. I will be adding some additional notes on these items later today as well.

It is a weird relationship - chocolate and wine, that is. There is a lot of tannin involved in a tasting of these two products, and when you compound any component, it can often become intense, sometimes to the point of unpleasantness. Depending on the sweetness level int he chocolate, and the fruit component of the wine, there can be outstanding matches, though.  The main thing to consider is the overall sugar level in the mouth, and the back-up fruit (often berries with red wine) supporting the sugar. 

Often a fruit driven, sapid, red with rich fruit and lower tannins will work best with rich and decadent chocolates. Think Aussie shiraz with 65% dark. Here are other suggestions on how to maximize your tasting experience.

1. Prepare – chocolate should be served at room temperature, and the wine at the temperature recommended for the specific wine style.  Cleans your palate with tepid water or a bland cracker.
2. Taste the Wine – swirl around to coat the side of the glass and release aromas.  Put your nose close to the glass; what scents do you detect?  Now sip the wine, swirl in your mouth, and notice the various flavors.  Is it fruity or dry?  Acidic or flat?  What notes are evident?  When you are done, cleanse your palate.
3. Savor the chocolate – break of a bite-sized piece.  Consider the aroma, identify the smells (creamy? berry? spice?) and look at its depth of color.  Place the chocolate in your mouth and let it slowly dissolve.  What flavors do you detect?  How would you describe the texture?
4. Now the wine again – swirl in your mouth so it blends with the chocolate.  How have the flavors of the wine and chocolate changed?  Are any of the notes in the wine more evident?
5. Repeat! Cleanse the palate between tastings.

 
TASTING WINE AND CHOCOLATE
Taste wine from lightest to darkest, similar to how you would taste the chocolate.

Milk Chocolate (less than 50% Cocoa) Pairs with:

• Port, Sherry, Dessert Wines, Rose, Burgundy

Smooth Dark Chocolate (+50% Cocoa) Pairs with:

• Champagne, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Vintage Port

Medium Dark Chocolate (+60% Cocoa) Pairs with:

• Merlot, Shiraz, Zinfandel, Chianti, Rhone varietals

Extra Dark Chocolate (+70% Cocoa) Pairs with:

• Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Barolo, Malbec

 

As a server or bartender, why would you sell wine as opposed to anything else the guest wanted to order?

As a food service professional, the number one reason to sell wine is:
INCREASED CHECK AVERAGES AND HIGHER GRATUITIES, otherwise known as MAKING MONEY!

For example:

• if a server were to sell 4 bottles of $35 wine per shift, 5 shifts per week, 50 weeks per year, and receive 18% gratuity, they would be adding $6,300 to their income!  (4 x $35 =$140; x 18% = $25.2; x 5 shift =$126; x 50 weeks = $6,300)

Additionally, for every $10 increase in the sale price of a wine – potential earnings (on average) add an extra $2 on the tip rate.

Beyond the monetary benefits, there are a number of great reasons to recommend wine to your guests:

• It tastes good!
  
• Food and wine are natural partners and when paired properly will enhance the flavor of each other.  An enhanced dining experience will bring guests back to your restaurant for repeat visits.
• Medical research suggests that, in moderation, wine contributes to good health.
• It tastes good!

• Familiarize yourself with the wine list.  I tell my staff trainees, the first step in good wine service is to take the wine list home, and read it out-loud. If you think you sound funny saying those names - then how will it sound to the guest trying to order a bottle of wine? Guests often look to servers for recommendations since it is virtually impossible for the average consumer to be familiar with the 20,000 plus wine labels available in the U.S. market.  You can’t make a recommendation if you don’t know anything about the wine.  It may not be possible to taste the entire wine list, but wines by the glass should be tasted when possible and descriptions of wines by the bottle should be made available (most winery web sites have wine fact sheets available).  

• Recommend Wine.  Wine lists should be presented to the host rather than being placed on the table randomly.  Recommend wine and food pairings.  Ask for the wine order.
  • May I suggest champagne or sparkling wine to start?
  • May I recommend a bottle to share or wines by the glass?
  • Cabernet Sauvignon pairs well with the beef special.  May I bring you a glass with your entrée?
  • May I pair a glass of dessert wine or Cognac with your dessert course?

 

• Banish Wine Snobbery.  Guests are often intimidated by wine and therefore either never order it for fear of embarrassment or simply pick a "default" wine they recognize or can say easily; pronunciations are difficult and tasting etiquette confusing.  Help your guests feel comfortable with wine.  Wine is a beverage meant to be enjoyed on many different levels, end of story!  Some guests will welcome a little pomp and circumstance with a fine bottle of wine; others will simply want a great tasting beverage to wash down their meal.  Learn to read your guest’s wine level and accommodate them accordingly.  Never contradict a customer’s wine selection; everyone has different tastes and unless your opinion is solicited, don’t offer it.

​Types of Customers

• Wine-Savvy Diners usually know what they want and are wiling to pay higher prices for a special bottle.
• Special Occasion Diners want something unique to celebrate the occasion.  Often, they are willing to take recommendations.  Offer a range of prices to choose from to accommodate their budget.
• Casual Diners may not want to spend a lot of money on a meal and appreciate budget-friendly suggestions.
• Frequent Diners patronize the restaurant regularly and like staff to know their preferences and make suggestions accordingly.

 

​Excellence is an act won by training and habituation.
We do not act rightly because we have virtue or excellence,
but rather we have those because we have acted rightly.
We are what we repeatedly do.
Excellence then, is not an act, but a habit.
Aristotle

​First tasting of the new year for the MNTG, and we are going to focus on a varietal for this one - Pinot Gris is the target. Last week I met with one of my Skype groups and we compared dry tasting notes on Pinot Gris from Alsace and Pinot Grigio from Collio / Alto-Adige, in Italy.

You can flip over to my resource page and Cultivars list to see my notes and some added background info on what we discussed. I think the important thing to keep in mind with identifying these wines and this variety blind, is really to focus on the structure. Pinot Gris has a definite bounce in acidity - at least from quality and hillside regions (as opposed to lower acid styles often associated with more high yielding and flatter vineyard areas). Combine this with some almond and almond skin, pear and ginger notes, and you stand a decent chance of figuring this one out. I find Pinot Gris and Grigio are often showing a little waxy note, as well as a sleek quality on the palate, which helps me to differentiate it from other Italian non-aromatic varieties.

My spotlight wine of the week, at least for the white side of things, is from that tasting last week, and is the Paul Kubler Pinot Gris K, 2014, from Alsace. This wine is racy, with med+ acidity, shows a long and sleek palate style and is rich without being heavy. I really enjoyed it and the slight phenolic bitterness is a good off-set to the slightly rich (but not sweet) feel. At 14% abv, it hid the alcohol well, and was a very good accompaniment to cheese and a light creamy (but vegan) pasta dish my son concocted.

The wine rings in at the $30 mark (maybe just a touch high on the mark-ups there?), but was well integrated and showed exceptional balance and mouthfeel, was rich without sweetness, juicy without being sharp, depth of pit fruit flavor with good length and balance throughout. I would recommend this if you come across it.

See you all Monday!